Prohibition Eggs

“The ‘Devil’ is in the details; that is, in the eggs,” according to my Aunt Ruth. She looked the embodiment of a good church lady. She offered at every summer picnic what appeared to be traditional, American Southern fare: salad eggs, also known as stuffed eggs or dressed eggs. She prepared tasty appetizers from boiled eggs, left-over Easter eggs, quail eggs, or plastic eggs. She never referred to them as “deviled eggs,” so as not to offend the Women’s Christian Temperance Union (“WCTU”). Ruth, a culinary subversive of the era, poured booze into her renowned, picnic specialty and no one ever knew. But before we get into that, a little background.

California voters were split between strong support and rejection of the Volstead Act (i.e. the Prohibition Act), as passed by the United States Congress in 1917. The WCTU heralded its passage as the culmination of their prohibition efforts since the Civil War emancipation effort. Opportunistic and “get rich quick” entrepreneurs saw the 13 months prior to the 18th Amendment’s ratification as a supply chain planning period. Idealistic President Woodrow Wilson preempted the 18th Amendment as he signed legislation in August 1917 banning the use of foodstuffs (like grain) in the production of distilled spirits.

The Anti-Saloon League and the WCTU chapters in the Delta were in complete support of temperance. They particularly abhorred hard spirits. Mrs. Adella Schott, of Antioch, chaired the organization’s San Joaquin chapter (the Contra Costa County Temperance Federation). Sheriff Richard Veal supported the greatly understaffed federal agents with intelligence that led to the largest illegal still operation in Northern California. There were only 1,500 nationwide federal agents initially appointed for enforcement. Thanks to Sheriff Veal, five leading citizens of the San Joaquin were pinched in a raid on Bethel Island.

Elsewhere, well-financed operators like Bill Foster and Al Adami were transporting whisky and rum, and introducing tequila into the Delta from offshore smuggling operations. Foster was an Alameda man run out of Alameda County by then district attorney, Earl Warren, later California Governor and Supreme Court Justice. Rio Vista proved a safe haven for Foster who established a bar and gambling den (Foster’s Little Big Horn) in the Sacramento River town in 1931. His confederate, Al Adami, ran a bar (read speakeasy) in Collinsville, the port of entry for ground shipments of illegal liquor north to Sacramento via State Highway 160. Rumrunners transported cases of booze to Collinsville by fast Stephens Brothers (Stockton) cruisers and speedboats. They outran any federal patrol boat. From the landing, cases of hooch were transferred to trucks and traveled easily to Rio Visa, Isleton, Ryde, Walnut Grove, Locke, and Freeport along the River Road (CA Hwy 160). Al Adami removed to Locke in 1934 and opened “Al the Wop’s” bar and restaurant. Ryde and its famous hotel were located at the southwestern edge of Sacramento County. Where better for state legislators to escape the Capitol and sin while out of town? The beautiful hotel and basement speak-easy, complete with sliding peep-grill, still await the visitor.

The 1920s Prohibition era found the female reformers and the male rum runners not sharing many saloon or liquor consumption viewpoints. There was a clever compromise between the two antagonists over the Devil Drink. As one would expect, all parties came together over food. All agreed upon and enjoyed the perennial picnic treat deviled eggs. Here enters my Aunt Ruth’s culinary compromise and her secret ingredient.

To “devil” is a culinary term describing the process of adding highly spicy or hot seasonings to a neutral binder to create a picante taste. Peppers, mustard, and paprika are common additives to create a “hot as hell” mouthful for the unsuspecting taster. This was neither Aunt Ruth’s Prohibition and Depression era experience nor understanding. The “Devil” was the secret ingredient: Aquavit! In other words, it was the Devil Drink artfully disguised and imbibed in the ubiquitous eggs.

Aquavit is the national drink of the Scandinavian countries: Denmark, Sweden, Norway, and Finland. It is a clear, high-proof alcohol, distilled product with a kick like Everclear (120 to 190 proof). The best is distilled from potatoes, but other grains are also used. It is often flavored with native grasses, cardamom, or dill. No Scandinavian social occasion is complete without a toast with Aquavit.

In the 1920s, countless fraternal organization picnics were held from Memorial Day through Labor Day, with delicious picnic fare prepared by rather “starchy” wives and mothers. However, Ruth fit right in with her specialty egg appetizer. No hard liquor was allowed at these picnics. Yet, Ruth’s deviled eggs were a hit on every occasion. Not surprisingly, everyone loved her and her quirky picnic contribution. We no longer wonder why. She never revealed the secret ingredient. Now her secret is out! Enjoy the following recipe and pair a Prohibition egg with a Carlsberg chaser. Skol!

Prohibition Eggs (Deviled) with Variations

Prep Time 40 minutes, Cook Time 15 minutes, Serves 24

Ingredients:

• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 12 hard-cooked eggs
• 4 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 4 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 1 jigger of the secret ingredient (see below)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• For garnish: pimento, paprika, and chopped fresh chives
• 2 tablespoons of white wine vinegar to add to the boiling water to ensure the shells separate easily from the eggs
• Optional for presentation: Butter lettuce

Preparation:

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add 2 tablespoons of white wine vinegar to the rapidly boiling water. Reduce the heat to low to ensure the water is no longer actively boiling. Use a slotted spoon or small strainer to place the eggs in the water. Return the heat back to high and set the timer for 14 minutes. Do not over boil or your egg whites will have a green edge tinge.
2. While the eggs are boiling, prepare an ice water bath and set aside. After 14 minutes, remove the eggs from the water and place them in the ice water bath.
3. Once the eggs have cooled completely, peel them and slice them in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks to a bowl using a small spoon. Place the egg whites on a plate face up.
4. Mash the yolks with a fork and add the mayonnaise, mustard, secret ingredient, salt, and pepper. Stir everything together until smooth. 
5. Use a spoon to add a portion of the yolk mixture back into the hole of each egg white. Sprinkle on paprika for garnish.

Presentation:

A craft or ceramic deviled egg plate (just like your Aunt Ruth had) is the preferred and traditional presentation method. There is even a Tupperware® covered tray designed specifically for the purpose. In lieu of a specialized platter, array some butter lettuce on a plate and place the eggs on it.

The secret ingredient, depending on your preference, is:

• Danish – Aquavit
• Mexican – Tequila
• Russian – Vodka
• Greek – Ouzo
• Cuban – Rum

For more Prohibition Egg recipes, including Prohibition French Toast (the author’s personal favorite), whisky pudding, apple pie, and booze cake; please email Historian@ByronHotSprings.com.

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